Fire Pit Buying Guide: Wood vs. Gas vs. Smokeless (Plus Safety & Local Rules)

A fire pit can turn an ordinary backyard into the place everyone wants to hang out after dark. It can also become an expensive lawn ornament if it smokes out your guests, violates a local rule, or sits too close to the house. This guide walks through the three main types, wood-burning, gas, and “smokeless” wood, plus the safety and local-rule questions you should answer before you buy.

As always, this is a research-based guide. We have not run hands-on tests of specific models, and we won’t pretend otherwise. Where a product recommendation would go, you’ll see a clearly marked placeholder.

The three main types of fire pits

1. Traditional wood-burning fire pits

This is the classic: a steel bowl, a ring, or a built-in masonry pit that burns split firewood. Nothing beats the crackle, the smell, and the ability to roast marshmallows over real coals. Wood-burning pits are also often the least expensive to buy.

Downsides: smoke (which tends to follow whoever is sitting downwind), sparks and embers, ash cleanup, and the need to source and store dry firewood. You also can’t just “turn it off”; a wood fire must be fully extinguished before you walk away.

2. Gas fire pits (propane or natural gas)

Gas fire pits and fire tables burn propane or natural gas through a burner, usually covered with lava rock or fire glass. You get a flame at the push of a button or turn of a valve, no smoke in your eyes, no embers, and no ash. When the evening ends, you turn it off.

Downsides: less heat and less “campfire” character than wood, no real cooking over coals, and ongoing fuel costs. Propane models need tank swaps or refills and somewhere to hide the tank; natural gas models need a gas line, which should be installed by a licensed professional and may require a permit. Many gas fire tables are sold primarily for ambiance, so if heat output matters to you, compare the manufacturer’s stated output and read the fine print.

3. “Smokeless” wood-burning fire pits

These are wood-burning pits engineered to burn more completely. Most use a double-wall design: air is drawn in near the bottom, heated as it rises between the walls, and released through vent holes near the top rim, feeding a secondary burn that consumes more of the smoke and gases before they escape.

“Smokeless” is a marketing term, not a guarantee. These pits typically produce noticeably less smoke once the fire is hot and burning well, but they still smoke during startup, when overloaded, and especially when the wood is damp. They also tend to cost more than a basic bowl and have a smaller firebox, so you’ll feed them more often.

Quick comparison

General category traits only, not test results for any particular product.

If cooking outdoors is the main goal, a grill is usually the better tool; our pellet vs. gas vs. charcoal grill guide compares the options.

Materials, size, and shape

Materials

• Carbon steel: common and affordable; will rust over time unless coated and covered.
• Stainless steel: resists corrosion better and is typical of many smokeless designs; usually costs more.
• Cast iron: heavy and durable, but needs protection from rust.
• Stone, concrete, or masonry: used for built-in pits and many gas tables. Durable and permanent, but not portable.
• Clay/ceramic chimineas: attractive, but can crack with sudden temperature changes, for example if cold water hits a hot surface.

Size and shape

Think about how many people you usually host. A smaller pit suits two to four people; larger gatherings need more seating around a bigger fire. Round pits encourage conversation since everyone faces the center; rectangular fire tables suit long sectional sofas. Plan for comfortable walking space behind chairs, and remember that bigger fires need more clearance. For seating arrangements and traffic flow in a compact yard, see the fire-pit circle layout in our small backyard patio layout guide.

Placement and safety

Placement is the single most important safety decision you’ll make. Guidance varies by source and jurisdiction, so treat the numbers below as the minimum starting point and follow the stricter rule if your local code or the manufacturer says otherwise.

• Distance from the house. The U.S. Fire Administration advises using chimneys, outdoor fireplaces, and fire pits outdoors at least 10 feet from your home or anything that can burn.^[1] Many local fire codes based on the International Fire Code are stricter. For example, published fire-marshal guidance from several jurisdictions cites 15 feet for portable outdoor fireplaces and 25 feet for open recreational fires.^[2] Check yours.
• Look up. Keep clear of low branches, eaves, umbrellas, pergola roofs, and awnings. (Planning a pergola too? See what to check before you build one.)
• Non-combustible base. Set the pit on stone, pavers, gravel, or concrete, not directly on a wood deck or dry grass, unless the manufacturer specifically allows it with an approved heat shield.
• Use a spark screen on wood fires to keep embers in,^[1] and skip the fire on windy days or when your area’s fire danger rating is high.^[7]
• Never leave it unattended. Turn off or put out fires before you leave the backyard, and closely watch children around the pit.^[1]
• Have extinguishing equipment ready: a garden hose, a bucket of water or sand, or a fire extinguisher.
• No accelerants. Don’t use gasoline or other flammable liquids to start or revive a fire.^[7]
• Dispose of ashes safely. Douse the fire with water and make sure it is cool to the touch, then put cooled ashes and coals in a metal container with a lid, placed outside away from anything that can burn.^[1][7]
• Gas units: follow the manufacturer’s installation and clearance instructions, check connections for leaks, and use gas fire pits outdoors only.

Firewood that burns cleaner

Wet wood is the number-one cause of a smoky fire, even in a “smokeless” pit. The U.S. EPA’s Burn Wise program, now archived but still online as a reference, recommends burning only dry, split, seasoned wood with a moisture content below 20%. It advises splitting, stacking, covering the top of the stack, and storing softwoods for at least six months and hardwoods for at least a year.^[3] EPA also advises never burning garbage, plastics, or pressure-treated wood.^[3]

A practical trick from the same guidance: buy an inexpensive wood moisture meter, split a log, and test the freshly split face.^[3]

Local rules (with a Georgia example)

Rules for recreational fires depend on your state, county, city, HOA, and sometimes the day’s weather. Here is how it works in Georgia, as an example of the kinds of rules to check wherever you live:

• Summer burn ban. Georgia’s Environmental Protection Division (EPD) enforces an annual open-burning ban from May 1 to September 30 in 54 counties, mostly in north and central Georgia, to reduce ozone-forming pollution.^[4]
• Recreational fires are exempt from that ban. EPD lists campfires and barbecues among the exceptions, and states that recreational activities such as campfires and grilling are exempt.^[4][5]
• But local rules can be stricter. EPD notes that some counties and cities have more stringent restrictions and recommends checking with your local fire marshal.^[5] Separate drought-related burn bans issued by the Georgia Forestry Commission can also apply in some areas.^[5]
• What you can burn. Georgia prohibits burning man-made materials such as tires, shingles, plastics, lumber, or household garbage, so stick to clean, natural firewood.^[6]

Buying checklist

1. Wood, gas, or smokeless? Decide whether ambiance, convenience, or less smoke matters most.
2. Where will it go? Measure distances to the house, fences, trees, and overhangs, and check the manufacturer’s required clearances.
3. What surface? Plan a non-combustible base.
4. Fuel logistics: firewood storage, propane tank storage, or a professionally installed gas line.
5. Rules: confirm local codes, HOA rules, and burn bans.
6. Accessories: spark screen, cover, poker, and extinguishing equipment.
7. Seating: keep comfortable but safe distance and room to walk behind chairs.

The bottom line

Choose a wood-burning pit for the classic experience at the lowest cost, a gas pit for push-button convenience with no smoke, and a smokeless design if you want real wood fire with less smoke and are willing to burn properly dry wood. Whatever you choose, placement, dry fuel, and local rules matter more than the brand on the side.

Frequently asked questions

Sources

1. U.S. Fire Administration (FEMA), “Outdoor Fire Safety.” usfa.fema.gov (accessed Oct. 2026).
2. Fairfax County (VA) Fire Marshal, “Portable Fireplaces” fairfaxcounty.gov; Garland (TX) Fire Marshal, “Fire Pits and Chimeneas” policy garlandtx.gov (both cite International Fire Code Section 307; accessed Oct. 2026).
3. U.S. EPA Burn Wise (archived program), “Burn Wise: Facts & Figures + Health and Safety Tips” epa.gov and “Best Wood-Burning Practices” epa.gov (accessed Oct. 2026).
4. Georgia EPD, “Summer Open Burning Ban.” epd.georgia.gov (accessed Oct. 2026).
5. Georgia EPD press release, “Annual Ban on Open Burning” (Apr. 29, 2026). epd.georgia.gov.
6. Georgia EPD, “Open Burning Rules for Georgia.” epd.georgia.gov (accessed Oct. 2026).
7. National Fire Protection Association, “Grilling Safety” (fire-starting, fire-danger, and coal-disposal tips). nfpa.org (accessed Oct. 2026).